This post includes affiliate links that help support my blog at no cost to you.
Woweee, these last 12 months have constituted the year of coats for me! And the Lagan Coat by Itch to Stitch made the perfect capstone!
I actually tested this coat all the way back in January and February, so I’ve had the chance to wear it throughout the winter/spring season already!
This coat is *INVOLVED*, but the results are worth it! Kennis warned us prior to announcing the tester call that it would take us a long time to make. But I loved the style and have always wanted to make a coat like this, so I was sure to clear my plate of every other testing project so that I could give my Lagan Coat the attention it needed.
Lagan is a winter coat and features:
- princess seams
- shoulder yokes and waistband
- standard collar with collar stand
- two piece sleeves
- knee length
- single-breasted with five centered buttons
- completely lined
- Sizes 00 – 40: 00 – 20 have A, B, C, D and DD cups; Sizes 22-40 have B, C, D, DD cups
The pattern is a digital PDF and comes with layers so you can select just the sizes you need. I selected size 2 chest/waist with an A cup (there are multiple cup options!), and printed the size 6 for the skirt portion. We had the option of sending the A0 version to a blueprinter, but I decided to just print and tape together. It took up my whole dining room floor! While I do have a paper trimmer, I found it easier to just snip a 45 degree angle at each corner of the pattern and align that way. This helped me assemble it fairly quickly.
Lagan includes multiple lengthening lines. I added 2 inches below the hip. I did not lengthen the arms, but I think I should have added about 1/2″ (I need to make a note to myself as I think this is something I need to do with all Itch to Stitch patterns).
I started out by making a muslin in some quilting cotton (just with the outside pieces — not the lining) and after determining that it fit great, I proceeded to making my final version.
One thing to keep in mind – the sleeve line has two cut lines – one for the outer and one for the lining. I failed to pay attention to that, and it wasn’t until I was completely done that I realized my lining was too long in the sleeves. Oops.
Making the buttonholes was challenging. Mostly because the fabric is bulky and heavy and kind of like trying to struggle with a medium sized dog on your lap. I would like to try my hand at doing bound buttonholes next time. If you do decide to do regular buttonholes though, I would suggest using a manual buttonhole foot rather than an automatic one. The sensors on the auto feet tend to get thrown off with bulky fabric and never end up quite right. At least in my experience.
For my outer fabric, I used Michael Kors Wool/Polyester Brushed Coating, and Famous Dress Designer (fairly sure that’s code for Maggie London) Polyester/Lycra Stretch Satin for the lining (note, the pattern doesn’t call for stretch fabric — I bought that because I wanted the color). Both these fabrics were from Fabric Mart. For interfacing, I used Palmer/Pletch jacket interfacing (from Fabric Mart) and also knit tricot from Fashion Sewing Supply.
I scoured Etsy for buttons – ultimately settling on these Italian Black Textured Gray Vintage Coat Buttons from TrimGem. I really love how sturdy they are – so many buttons in the big box stores are thin and blah looking. Usually, I try to coincide my button needs with one of our trips to New York City, but with covid going on, it had been a whole year since our last visit when I made this coat.
Lagan is an advanced pattern, but a confident and patient intermediate sewist can tackle this project. The instructions are very clear and detailed. You’ll definitely need a sewing machine that can tackle bulky seams. You’ll also want:
- Microtex needles in size 90/14
- Tailors ham (super helpful for pressing curves)
- Clapper (I actually use a piece of wood scrap)
- Fusible stay tape (I love the ones from Emma Seabrooke)
I felt a great sense of accomplishment in finishing this coat – so much so, that I thought it was super appropriate to include this fun tag from Kylie and the Machine – part of the swag we got from the 2020 DC Frocktails gala (pre-covid!).
Thanks for reading about this project! I hope I’ve given you some confidence to try coat making yourself!
Lagan is currently on sale – grab it during release week for 20% off, and get an extra 15% off your entire cart if your purchase is $20 or more, or 20% off your entire cart if your purchase is $30 or more!