children, sewing, women

FeeFee Filou Sew-along – Day 3

This week I’m teaching you how to make the FeeFee Filou hoodie. Yesterday we prepped some of the pieces and we’ll be putting everything together today. If you missed a lesson, here are the links:

FeeFee Filou Sew-along – Day 1

FeeFee Filou Sew-along – Day 2

We’ll kick off today by assembling the main body of the sweatshirt, then move onto the insert and hood.

Main body assembly

If you’ve made any other raglan shirt before, then this part will be super easy for you.

Align the front bodice notches with the double notches on the sleeves and serge. Then attach the back bodice to the sleeves. (See page 8-9).

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You can use a wonderclip to ensure your notches stay together.

Optional: Coverstitch or topstitch the seams.

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Next, align the front and back and serge from the sleeve to the bodice hemline. To ensure your underarm seams are perfectly aligned you can either put a little bit of wondertape at the seam join before serging, or if you have left some thread tails at the underarm, you can tie them together and then serge.

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Adding the wondertape was an afterthought, obviously ;-). This tape is double-sided, so you just peel off the white paper and stick the two fabrics together. It dissolves in the wash.

The Insert

This part is definitely the most confusing part of the pattern, so bear with me and hopefully I can help you get your head around this part!

The version that you choose will determine exactly how you install this part.

Insert with collar (hooded or hoodless)

This is described on page 16 – 18.

Take your OUTER INSERT, grommet side up, and attach the binding evenly around edge (raw sides together).

Take your OUTER COLLAR, and stitch to insert, right sides together. Unlike me, do not stitch the binding at this point – binding will be stitched down during assembly to the bodice.

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Repeat for COLLAR LINING and INSERT LINING.

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Flip one insert inside out and then put one inside the other, right sides together. Serge along top, making sure collar stretches enough to go over your child’s head without popping threads.

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Flip right sides out.

The hood will be added when we attach the insert to the bodice.

NOTE: If you are using a real drawstring, then you may want to insert that now.

Insert with hood, no collar

This version is described on pages 12-15.

For this version, you will join your insert pieces together at the top first (this was done yesterday).

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Take your binding strip, unfold it and stitch the short edges, right sides together. Refold.

Use clips or pins to align the binding seam with the center seam of the OUTER hood (right sides and raw edges together). Evenly pin/clip hood to binding (See page 14).

Align the top edge, front side (grommet side) of insert with the notches on the hood. Evenly pin/clip to binding.

Adjust spacing along binding if necessary.

Then, take your INNER hood and pin/clip to the binding, sandwiching the binding inside the hood.

ONLY SERGE THE HOOD. You’ll serge the rest of the insert when you attach it to the front bodice.

Attaching the Insert and optional Hood

We are NEARLY THERE!!!

The steps for this part are on pages 23 – 24 .

Mark the center back and center front of the bodice neckline and insert/collar pieces.

Turn bodice inside out.

Keep hood/collar right side out and align back center points, right sides together. Clip/pin all around the opening, keeping everything symmetrical and even. Double check your work before serging together. You may also find it helpful to put a piece of wonder tape where the hood connects to the body.

Optional: Top stitch starting from back shoulder seam, around insert and around the back. If you’re using a garment tag, you can add that during this step. I use some wonder tape to ensure it’s caught in my top stitching.

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Back view of top stitching
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Front view of top stitching

And here’s a video of what everything looks like when you’re done with this part! (My husband came home right in the middle of it, hence why I cut it off abruptly LOL)

Cuffs & Waistband

Finally, add on your cuffs and waistband. Mark quarter points on the waistband and half points on the cuffs to ensure they are evenly lined up. Align the cuff seam with the inside seam of the sleeve, and the waistband with either side seam.

And you are all done! Congratulations!

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Finished? Use the linkup below to show off your work! (Linkup will stay open until February 5, 2018).

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