This week I’m teaching you how to make the FeeFee Filou hoodie. Yesterday I provided information on translating, tracing, and getting your pattern pieces cut out and prepped. Today we’ll start the assembly!
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Let’s start with pockets. Mark the pocket openings if you haven’t already. I use a washable marker.
If you are doing the angled pocket, take your binding strips, align without stretching, and attach with serger. Note that you want to have a little overhanging at the top.
For both pocket options: Press. Top stitch.
Take some pins and mark the pocket opening (see image above right).
I like to use quilt basting spray* to attach my pocket. Ideally you should do this in a well ventilated space. Spray the back of the pocket and then attach it to your front bodice piece.
Top Stitch pocket in place, lock stitching at the pocket openings. Do your best to align with the previous top stitching. Remove pins.
If you’d like to have elbow patches, follow the dimensions on page 28 to create your stencil. The simplest way to do this is take a piece of paper and fold it into quarters. Then measure half of the width and half of the height and connect with a curve. Cut out, then unfold your template.
There’s a diagram on page 28 showing where to place your elbow patch. It’s supposed to sit half way between the end of the cuff and the bottom of the armsceye. I found this was a little low for my daughter, so if you have your child present, you should measure it against their arm for a perfect location.
Use quilt basting spray to attach the elbow patch. Then top stitch.
Sewing Machine: Depending on your machine, you may find it helpful to have some tracing paper or washaway stabilizer between your feed dogs and fabric as you sew.
Coverstitch Machine: If you want to do reverse coverstitch, use a tracing wheel and carbon paper to copy the stitching line onto the back of the sleeve.
Prepping the Insert
For this demo, I’m going to show you how to make the regular insert (Insert A). The pictures are for the version with no collar – I had to make changes after I took these photos!
Here’s a video explaining how the insert piece works.
HOODED VERSION ONLY: With right sides together, attach the two insert pieces together along the straight edge. Press, rolling the lining slightly to the back.
ALL VERSIONS: Use a washable glue stick (or basting spray, or wonder tape*) to temporarily attach the grommet accents to the FRONT of the insert.
Now, here is where you should deviate from my photos, because I messed up!
If you are planning on having a faux drawstring, go ahead and install it now. You can also use your creativity here too. You could use lace, cotton lycra, ribbon, etc. Baste it in place from the back, then use your sewing machine to top stitch around the square from the right side.
I used a slightly longer straight stitch (I think it was about 3mm). Be sure to only catch the drawstring in the top row of stitching.
Again, be careful to move the drawstring out of the way when you do the diagonal lines.
Next you’ll be installing your eyelets or grommets. I came to the conclusion a few years ago that grommets hate me, so late last year I got a tabletop grommet press and IT IS LOVE! Follow the instructions in whatever set you have to install them right in the center of your grommet accent. After you’ve pushed the eyelet or grommet through, and before pressing it, put some fray check* on the stitching.
Knot the ends AFTER they are through the grommet holes. You can also take a scrap of cotton lycra to finish the ends. If you’re making this for an older child or adult, you can put toggles on the ends.
Prepping the Hood
With right sides together, serge along the curved line of lining pieces, then outer pieces. Use your pattern piece to make a small notch where the insert will overlap the hood (it’s about 2 inches from the base) (see page 12).
Optional: coverstitch along center seam on each center seam line.
IMPORTANT: If you are doing a version with a collar, then the hood binding is optional and you can install that now. If you are doing a version with NO collar, then stop now and we’ll work on that part tomorrow.
Divide the binding in half, then use binding clips or pins to attach it to the right side of one hood, raw edges together (connect the center point and bottom edges first, then evenly attach the rest of the binding to the hood). Once it’s looking even, attach other hood, right side towards the binding so that the binding is sandwiched between the two hoods. Serge.
Optional: coverstitch along the binding seam.
Prepping the Bands
While you’re at your serger, go ahead and stitch the hem and wrist bands together (right sides together, sew short ends).
Pages 25-27 have directions for sewing thumbhole cuffs if you want to do that style instead. I haven’t made this version, however the directions look a bit clunky. I’d suggest going with this thumb hole tutorial over at Hey June instead.
That will do for today! Tomorrow we’ll finish up!
Finished already? Use the linkup below to show off your work! (Linkup will stay open until February 5, 2018).