children, sewing, women

FeeFee Filou Sew-along – Day 1

Finally, oh finally, I have put together a sewalong for the long requested Filou Hoodie! (See my other Filou’s here and here). I have made 2 of these hoodies so far, and only in the children’s sizes. The only difference I can see between the women’s and the children’s patterns is that the children’s has the angled pocket included in the pattern pieces but the women’s does not. So, if you have both patterns, then start with the children’s to make things less confusing!

I’m more of a writing person, but I know many of you prefer video, so here’s a video summary of what I’ll be going over today.

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The first step is to work out which design you’ll be doing. Here are the options:

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Top left: Collar version with round pocket & regular insert | Top right: Hooded version with slanted pocket & regular insert | Bottom left: Hooded version with cellar fold insert | Bottom right: Hooded version with collar

The pattern is available in German only, so you’ll need to translate it before you get started. To do this, I followed the suggestions on Cheeky Ladybug blog and copy and pasted sections of text into Google translate rather than the entire document at once.

Now, I have the full version of Adobe Acrobat, so your experience may be different from mine if you’re just using Acrobat Reader, but I am able to paste the translation over the top of the existing text by using the Text Call Out or Text Box tools. Below is a screenshot of what they look like. Be sure if you are doing this, that you periodically save – just in case your computer decides to crash mid-way. Ask me how I know.

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One great thing about the Filou, is that the pattern pages can be printed on US Letter sized paper. Each page has a box around it that you can use for lining your pages up.

I would suggest printing your pattern pieces out in color since each line is a solid line. If you do not have this option (or you forget), spend some time with your highlighter, tracing around each size you need in a different color.

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I am a person who traces things, so my next step is to take medical exam paper* and trace over each pattern piece with a pencil. After that, I add seam allowance. I like to use 3/8″ which allows me to serge just a little bit off. There are various methods for adding seam allowance. My current preferred method is to use my quilting rulers* on the straight edges and add with a pencil. THEN, for any curved edges, I take a piece of Saral paper* and a double tracing wheel* and trace around the remaining edges. I’m then ready to cut my pattern template out.

All edges will need seam allowance EXCEPT for fold lines.

 

 

 

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Pocket Option

If you are planning to add the slanted pocket, you’ll need to trace that off from the bodice as a separate piece. If you are doing the round pocket, that piece is marked on the bodice but is available as a separate piece already (over pages 9 and 12 on the kids version).

If you are doing the women’s version, you’ll need to draw the slanted pocket template onto your bodice pattern piece yourself. I don’t know why it’s not included on the pattern, even though it’s the cover image! As I said earlier, I haven’t made the women’s version, but adding the piece on shouldn’t be too complicated. The easiest way to do it would be to use a hip curve ruler*, as the edge has a slight curve to it. If not, use a combination of regular ruler and then free hand the curve as best you can.

All the Ingredients

Sometimes the hardest part is working out what you need for each version! Here’s a breakdown:

Picking a size:

Size is according to height. If your child is narrowly built, sew one size smaller and add 2cm to the hemline of bodice front and back and the pocket piece.

If you’re sewing for a boy, you may wish to shorten the top a little. I can’t quite work out the translation here but I think it suggests shortening the bodice and pocket pieces by 5cm.

All Versions:

  • 1 x bodice front on fold (Vorderteil)
  • 1 x bodice back on fold (Ruckenteil)
  • 2 x sleeve (Armel)
  • 2 x cuffs – size is described on page 25. The width for each one (from selvedge to selvedge) is 80% of the sleeve opening + seam allowance. The height (parallel to selvedge) is as follows: size 140-158 = 20cm + SA, size 98-134 = 15cm + SA, size 80-92 = 10cm + SA. To determine how wide your sleeve opening is, just measure the width of the sleeve base on your original pattern template and multiply it by 2.
  • 1 x hem band – size is described on page 2. Take child’s thigh circumference (I used hip) and multiply by 80% (.8) for the length. The height range is from 15cm-20cm (use 15 for the smaller sizes and 20 for the larger).
  • OPTIONAL – 2 x elbow patches (template and drafting instructions on page 28)

Version 1: Collar version with round pocket and regular insert

  • 2 x collar on fold (Kragen) – both pieces go at the back of the shirt – one outer, one lining.
  • 2 x insert A (Vorderteileinsatz A) – one lining, one outer
  • Binding strip (described on page 16) – measure the curved edge of insert A template piece, multiply by .9, add SA and then multiply by 2. Height is 4cm.
  • 2 x round pocket (aufgesetzte Tasche) – one outer, one lining.
  • Scraps for grommet holes + woven interfacing
  • Grommets/eyelets
  • Drawstring

Version 2: Hooded version with slanted pocket and regular insert

  • 4 x hood (Kapuze) – 2 lining, 2 outer
  • 1 x pocket (traced from bodice)
  • 2 x insert A (Vorderteileinsatz A) – one lining, one outer
  • Binding strips for pocket (described on page 10) – measure curved edge including SA. Cut 2 strips, 4cm wide, same length as pocket.
  • Binding strip for insert and hood – measure length of insert and hood according to second picture on page 13. Multiply that by .8, add 1 x SA, then double the total. Your binding strip is this measurement x 4cm width.
  • Scraps for grommet holes + woven interfacing
  • Grommets/eyelets
  • Drawstring

Version 3: Cellar fold version

  • 4 x hood (Kapuze) – 2 lining, 2 outer
  • 1 x insert B (Vorderteileinsatz B) –  outer
  • 1 x insert A (Vorderteileinsatz A) – inner
  • Binding strip for insert and hood – measure length of insert and hood according to second picture on page 13. Multiply that by .8, add 1 x SA, then double the total. Your binding strip is this measurement x 4cm width.
  • 2-3 buttons

Version 4: Hooded version with collar

  • 4 x hood (Kapuze) – 2 lining, 2 outer
  • 2 x insert of choice
  • Binding strip for insert and hood – measure length of insert and hood according to second picture on page 13. Multiply that by .8, add 1 x SA, then double the total. Your binding strip is this measurement x 4cm width.
  • Pocket of choice + binding if applicable
  • Grommets + drawstring + scrap square + interfacing OR buttons if using Insert B.

A note on bindings: Whether you add seam allowance to your binding WIDTH (4cm) is up to you. From memory, I don’t think I did. If you do, make sure you add the same allowance to each one so that your bindings are consistent.

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Today’s Fabric Prep

Go ahead and cut out all the pieces you need from your fabric. I use a rotary cutter and self healing mat, plus washers from the hardware store as weights.

(By the way, this fabric was a pre-order with Beanpop Fabrics, but they decided not to run it last year… so if you want it, you’ll have to bug them!!)

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Once you’ve cut the binding strips, press them in half lengthways using your iron, wrong sides together. I use spray starch to make this a bit easier (and to help it stay folded well).

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If you’re using grommet accents, iron woven interfacing to the backs of them (I use Pellon SF101).

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Work out where on your Insert you would like the grommets to go, and iron on 2 more squares of interfacing to the back of the outer Insert piece. (See page 13 for a visual of the location).

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I used a marker and ruler to work out placement for my interfacing. I also did this step after serging my Insert pieces together, but you can easily do it right now since you’ve got your interfacing and iron out already! Just make sure to allow a little room for your seam allowance.

I think that’s enough for one day! Tomorrow we will get to the sewing part!

Finished already? Use the linkup below to show off your work! (Linkup will stay open until February 5, 2018). 

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3 thoughts on “FeeFee Filou Sew-along – Day 1”

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